Under-Cabinet & Under-Counter Lighting

Setting Up Under-Cabinet Lighting

The right under-cabinet setup depends on the fixture form, how it's powered, and how evenly it lights the counter underneath.

Light Bars, Puck Lights, and Tape

Three forms cover most under-cabinet installs. A linear light bar gives even, continuous light across the counter and is the most straightforward to wire, one bar per cabinet section. Puck lights cast individual round pools of light, a better fit for accenting specific spots or lighting glass-front cabinets from within rather than lighting a full run evenly. LED tape, run inside an aluminum channel with a diffuser cover, is the thinnest and most flexible option, disappearing into the cabinet underside for a clean, hidden look with no visible fixture bodies. Tape and channel systems make up a large part of this collection, since they let a contractor build a custom-length run rather than working around fixed bar sizes.

Hardwired, Plug-In, or Battery

Hardwiring hides the wiring entirely and is the standard choice for new kitchens and remodels, tying into a wall switch with no visible cord. Plug-in lighting runs off a standard outlet and a cord, which works well when no junction box is available above the cabinet and running new wiring isn't practical. Battery or rechargeable units need no wiring at all but require periodic recharging or battery swaps, which makes them a better fit for a rental or a quick fix than a permanent kitchen install. Hardwired is the default for a finished, permanent installation.

Linking Fixtures Along a Run

Most bars and tape kits are designed to link end to end with jumper cables or in-line connectors, running off one power feed and one switch for an entire counter. Every product line sets its own maximum linked length or wattage before the run needs a second feed point, so check that limit on the specific listing before laying out a long continuous run across multiple cabinets.

Dimming and Color Temperature

Most LED under-cabinet lighting is dimmable, either through a compatible wall dimmer or an inline control built into the fixture or cord. Color-selectable models switch between warm 2700K, neutral 3000K to 4000K, and cool 5000K, usually with a small switch on the fixture or driver, and some tape systems offer continuously tunable white instead of fixed steps. Confirm dimmer compatibility before pairing one in, since not every driver dims cleanly on every control. Lumera's dimmers collection covers the options sorted by compatible load type.

Sizing and Placement

Choose a bar or tape run roughly two-thirds the width of the cabinet above it, so the light reaches the counter edges rather than leaving the ends in shadow. Mount it toward the front underside of the cabinet, just behind the face frame, so it lights the work surface directly rather than washing the backsplash. For puck lights specifically, spacing them 12 to 18 inches apart gives an even wash rather than a series of distinct bright spots.

Rounding Out the Install

For architectural runs beyond the counter, like toe-kick lighting or shelf edges, Lumera's linear lighting collection covers similar fixtures built for a broader range of applications.

A hardwired tape system built on low-voltage components needs a matched power supply. Lumera's LED drivers collection covers the low-voltage drivers that pair with these tape and channel kits.

For a bare tape run without pre-assembled channel hardware, Lumera's tape light collection covers standalone reels and accessories separately from the full channel bundles here.

If the install needs a new wall switch to control the run, Lumera's standard switches collection covers that basic on and off control.

Under-Cabinet Lighting FAQs

What's the difference between under-cabinet light bars, puck lights, and tape?

A linear light bar gives even, continuous light and is the easiest to wire. Puck lights cast round pools of light, good for accenting a spot or a glass cabinet. LED tape is the thinnest and most flexible, hiding in a channel for a clean, hidden look with no visible fixture body.

Should I hardwire or plug in under-cabinet lighting?

Hardwiring hides the wiring and ties into a wall switch, the standard choice for new kitchens and remodels. Plug-in lighting uses an outlet and a cord, useful when no junction box is available. Battery or rechargeable units need no wiring but require recharging.

Can under-cabinet lights link together in a run?

Yes, most bars and tape kits are designed to chain end to end with jumper cables or connectors, running off one power feed and one switch. Each product line sets its own maximum linked length or wattage, so check that limit on the listing before planning a long run.

Are these lights dimmable and color-selectable?

Most are. Dimmable models pair with a compatible dimmer or an inline control. Color-selectable units switch between warm, neutral, and cool white with a small switch, and some tape systems offer continuously tunable white instead of fixed steps.

How do I size and place under-cabinet lighting for even light?

Choose a bar or run about two-thirds the width of the cabinet above it, mounted toward the front underside behind the face frame so it lights the counter rather than the backsplash. For puck lights, space them 12 to 18 inches apart for even coverage.